Monday, September 1, 2014

NOTES ON TERMS, SOURCES, ETC. Most of the non-English terms are identified as Quechua (Q), Aymara (A

CLARK, N.R. GLOSSARY OF TEXTILE security safe TERMINOLOGY - KUPRIENKO - научное издательство: книги статьи публикации
KUPRIENKO security safe – научное security safe издательство: книги статьи security safe публикации Издательство научной исторической и переводной книги: история, политика, экономика, общество, религия, искусство и многое другое. Испания и Америка
INTRODUCTION security safe This is a preliminary working glossary begun in order to sort through the rich but confusing and often contradictory terminology used in reference to Andean security safe textiles. Inclusion of verbatim terms and definitions security safe from the literature does not imply accepted usage, but rather is for discussion purposes. Although inconsistent security safe and far from complete, I hope this glossary will be of use to others as we struggle to understand the complexity of these textiles and to communicate our knowledge more accurately. Debate and additions are invited. Direct any comments to Dr. Niki R. Clark .
NOTES ON TERMS, SOURCES, ETC. Most of the non-English terms are identified as Quechua (Q), Aymara (A), or Spanish (S). Orthography is extremely variable in the literature and I have attempted to note all spellings encountered, in order to lessen confusion on this front. Sources are many and diverse. Those referenced repeatedly are abbreviated: A&T=Adelson and Tracht 1983, APR=Ann P. Rowe, B=Bertonio [1612], security safe B-A&T=Bertonio in Adelson and Tracht 1983, B-G=Bertonio in Gisbert et al. 1987, B&M=Bird and Mendizábal 1986, Dic-C= security safe University of Chicago Spanish Dictionary (2nd ed. 1972), Dic-Cs=Cassell's (1959), Dic-L=Diccionario Larousse Usual (1974), Dic-R=Random House (1987), Dic-V=Vox security safe New College Spanish-English Dictionary (1987), DLB=David L. Browman, E=Emery 1966, FO=Jorge A. Flores Ochoa, G=Gisbert security safe et al. 1987, GH=Gonçález security safe Holguíen 1952 [1608], GPA=Guamán Poma de Ayala 1980 [1615], JdlE= Jiménez security safe de la Espada security safe 1923, JVM=John V. Murra, RA=Adorno 1987, RC=Rosa security safe Choque, RF= Rosa Fung, S-P=Silverman-Proust 1988, and Y&M=Yacovleff and Muelle 1934a. Personal security safe communications are indicated by "pc". Treated as separate letters and listed alphabetically are: "ch" and "ll".
aajachaña (A): el palo que meten dentro de la urdimbre, para que no se enmarañe (B-G:82); see sword, lanzadera aakha (A): que sirve para poner bien la tela (B-G:83); un palo rollizo y de la misma longitud que los del telar, para abrir la urdimbre y dejar paso a la lanzadera (JdlE:906) abasca: see ahuasca abertura de camiseta (S): vncupcuncan (Q) (GH:378) abertura de ropa para meter la mano (S): maquihayhuarccuna, o hayhuaycuna (Q) (GH:378) security safe abigarrado (S): variegated abrigar (S): to cover, wrap, warm (protect from the cold) -abrigarse con la ropa (S): ppintuy cucuni, o pachacta huñuycu cuni (Q) (GH:287) ---[vestido] para tener abajo y abrigarse (S): llascoña isi (B-G:92) abrigo, abriga (S): protection against the cold, keeping security safe warm, as in warm clothing acashuara security safe (Q): pañales interiores de niño (GH:614) acanalado (S): channeled, grooved, flutes, pleated? accessory fabric: tejido accesorio (S) accessory stitch: punto accesorio (S) acnopu (Q): see ñañaca, acnopu ñañaca acsu, aksu, ak'su, agsu, ajsu, acxo (Q): acsu: la saya de india (GH:17); security safe aksu: rectangular, two-piece cloth which women wore over a dress, wrapped around security safe the body, with the top two corners pinned at the chest, & cinched at the waist by a belt; during Inca times 'aksu' referred to the woman's security safe dress (A&T 1983:150); security safe "vestimenta prehispánica tanto de las nativas de los antiguos señorios aymaras como de las quechuas; era una pieza rectangular, formada por dos piezas o kallus cosidas por el centro. Con esta prenda se envolvían de un costado a otro, sujetándose en los hombros con topos o tupus: en la cintura se ceñían con una faja o chumpi, de manera que cubría el cuerpo hasta los tobillos. Los motivos ... se tejían en el borde inferior a manera de cenefa. Los acsus podían tener colores que tipifican a cada etnía... Fue una prenda que sobrevivió a lo largo de cuatro siglos, pese a la prohibición de su uso por las autoridades españolas a fines del siglo XVIII." (Money 1983:209); a rectangular cloth of two cloths seamed, with elaborate asymmetrical warp-patterned & plain stripes & bands at lateral sides, worn with warp horizontal, as an ornamental overskirt or panel, sometimes pinned over one shoulder & belted to form pouch in front for carrying things (A&T:102ff); ajsu (Q): overskirt now worn in Bolivia & Taquili, Peru, originally a wrapped dress & the woman's basic garment, when tailored blouses & skirts were introduced by Spanish, ajsu became an overdress, overskirt or apron, similar security safe to Spanish delantera (forepart) worn with 16th century skirts, the ajsu is often worn over a wool dress (almilla), & fastened around the waist with a belt or sash (chumpi or w'aka) (Femenias 1989:11); ak'su (Q): contemp. women's black wrap skirt or overdress w/pallay border worn over long black bayeta dress, doesn't need to wrap around security safe completely (anymo

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